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| The view from the master bedroom of Villa Ferro in Nespaledo, Italy. |
(Due to lack of internet, I've been writing these entries and unable to upload them. If you haven't done so yet, please read "Freshin your Drink, Gov'na" before this one.)
(I would like to preface this blog entry by saying that I’m about 40% drunk. Why am I drunk? To know that, you will have to read the following. I apologise for another epic, monumental entry, but I’ve had quite a first day in Italy.. I can only suggest, dear reader, you grab another cuppa, a few timtams, sit back, relax, and watch the show…..by reading.
Amongst my close group of friends, we have a saying. The saying goes as thus, usually directed at Kat (my wife) “Would you say Adam is In His Element?” The saying has multiple layers and meanings, but the jist of it is that at certain times and in certain places, I am totally at home and my enthusiasm for my various passions come out. At least, that is what I like to believe it means. A good example would be walking out of the film Inception from Southbank cinemas, when I’m full of ideas and conjecture of the aforementioned movie, and vociferously spitting for these opinions to whoever will listen. Another might be at a friend’s birthday at a restaurant, when I have a delicious meal in front of me and a beer in my hand. The individuals who usually make the “Element call” are Mr Luke Tierney and Mr Lee Cikuts, and good on ‘em.
But I digress. If the aforementioned are Adam Ferro in his elements, I want now draw you a mental picture, a brain movie, if you will. I want you, dear reader, not to read and know, but to Hear, See, Smell and Taste what I have experienced in the last 12 hours, (slightly over). I will start with what I just did, and then skip back, Memento-style, to the beginning.
A room, neither small nor large. Timber floors, a stone fireplace in the corner and an ancient wood fired stove at one end. The centrepiece of the room is a large timber L-shaped table, the walls are covered in paintings, drawings and pictures of old stone buildings. They look like what you might see when researching 17th and 18th century Venetian (Venice) life. You eyes thus occupied, your nose is filled with the aroma of fresh porchetta di risotto (pork sausage risotto), homemade vitella (veal) and a sweet, unnamed, local bianco de vino (white wine). Your ears are just as busy as your eyes. The seats of the table are not empty, but filled with the smiling, warm, laughing faces of people who started the day as distant blood relatives, but through their kindness, generosity and sheer love of le dolce vita (the good life) have quickly become friends who you would gladly have stay in your own home as long as they desired. You don’t speak their language 100%, but you can get every fourth or fifth word, and that enough to get the general message across. The air is full of laughter, calls for more drinks, queries of your recent wedding and cheeky but innocent jibes at your Australian/Dutch/Italian heritage. In one hand you have homemade limoncello (lemon liquer) and in the other you are grasping the fingers of your gorgeous wife. This, you think as you take a sip of the slightly sweet/ slightly sour limoncello, is truly Ferro in his Element. In fact, it’s the absolute, positive, most unimpeachable definition of Ferro in his element that there ever was, and possibly ever will be. If Ferro at Inception was a 2 of FIHE scale (Ferro in his element), right now you are a 1’7426, and that number is steadily rising.
It’s truly a thing of amazement and beauty when the barriers of language are broken down by common blood, loves and la familia (family). But I’m getting ahead of myself, and forget that you, reader, probably have no idea where or when I am, and also have no idea how I got here. I must also confess, I am writing this blog before I have finished my LAST blog entry, which as I now write just a file on my laptops hard drive. I’ll get to that once I’m done here. At 2am. By the way, I woke up at 3am. YESTERDAY.
Last time we spoke, I believe, (I’m getting metaphysical here, as I haven’t actually yet written the end of the last blog you read. Is your head exploding yet?) I had just crashed into bed after what I thought was a wild day and night in London, and the drama of the lost bag and Very Late Night.
So now I’m in Italy, having caught the redeye from London. Rather than make this a literal blow by blow of what I’ve done, I’ll merely try and convey the various emotions and share the experiences of my day. I’m afraid to do this, the reader (ie you) may need to know something of my background.
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| My Aunt Maria |
My family history in a very condensed form. My father, Edi Romano Ferro, is from a small town in Northern Italy called Nespaledo. He is one of five children, Edi Romano, Renzo, Luigi, Katerina and Lena, My mother is from the Netherlands, but you’ll hear a lot more about that in future updates. My father died of pancreatic cancer when I was about 16, and my mother, who speaks Italian, has kept in touch with my relatives over there, such as my cousin Amleto, my aunt Maria and many more. Nespaledo is a tiny town, and the Ferro’s are a well-known family. In fact, we own the biggest house in the village, of which I will do an entire separate update about (with photos), tomorrow, godwilling. Before today, I last visited these people when I was seven years old. Picture a young seven year old kid, surrounded by people who were friendly enough but speaking in what sounded like total gibberish to my seven year old ears. I was scared, I was unable to communicate an all I wanted was my mum. Most of you, I hope, can identify with that on some level. It was a fun holiday, but hard to remember.
So now that seven year old is twenty seven. He has a beautiful young wife, a freshly invigorated lust for life and has recently moved in with his sister in London to get out and explore the world. He knows that he has to spend a few days in Nespaledo to see the relies and kiss a few cheeks, but it’s not something he is really looking forward to, since he has very little memory of these people. All in all, it sums up neutral, from an emotional standpoint. I (switching to personal tense) have no strong feelings one way or the other, I could
take or leave going to Nespaledo.
And that really was my state of mind, right up until seeing my cousin Amleto on the train station in Udine. But once we arrived in Nespaledo, and my Aunt Maria literally was waiting at the driveway beaming at us, I can only describe it as feeling like coming home.
I must pause here and explain. Even I was confused and a little shocked. I haven’t been here in almost two decades! I haven’t spoken to these people and I know but a little Italian.. On the surface of the matter, we have little in common. But from the moment that car pulled up, and I greeted Maria with a smiling “Ciao!” I can honestly say that I’ve never felt more at home in my life than here amongst the quiet grape vines and swaying corn fields of Northern Italy. Every house is a picture perfect stone villa, every second person on the street on the street sees my mother and cries “Carla? Carla Ferro?, Romano Ferro moglie?” (Stop, are you Carla Ferro, Romano’s wife?)
Our more than gracious host Amleto (my fathers sisters son) was our guide for the day. It began innocently enough with lunch, as we arrived in the early afternoon from a 3am London flight and train trip. Maria had spent the day preparing a meal for us. We lugged out bags upstairs, and then made confortable in the kitchen to talk about la famiglia (family). Soon enough, in the Italian fashion we were sitting eating a delicious pasta dish and drinking local white wine. Kat, not being used to true Italian eating style, didn’t realise that pasta is only the first dish before the main dish is served, in this case polla a la fungi (chicken and mushrooms). I graciously helped her finish her surprise “second lunch”. I also accepted an expresso after the meal. Being of Italian blood, not to mention Romano Ferro’s son, I felt it would be poor form to decline. I certainly felt, not only then but throughout the day, that it was my job show that my fathers legacy was alive in my family. I endeavoured to say yes to whatever was thrown my way, even if my understanding of what I was agreeing to was basic at best. This caused interesting repercussions later.
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The Brave pilots of Tricolore. So patriotic,
their planes literally shit the Italian flag. |
Anyway, after our lunch, we walked ten minutes up the road to Amleto’s house to grab some bicycles and explore. By a ridiculously serendipitous turn of events, on this very day was an enormous festival called Festivale di Tricolore (The Festival of the Three Colours), where the local airbase was home to a festival featuring Italy’s best and most famous aerial stunt pilots. I wont go into to much detail here, but see photo’s for visual splendour. Also, not only was this festival this particular day, but particular YEAR of this festival was the 50th anniversary, so it was especially huge. People had travelled from all over North Italy in camper cans and coaches to see it, and conveniently, we were a ten minute bike ride away. Clearly, despite being not especially religious, someone up there still likes me. (See Found Sunglasses, last entry.)
We then spend the next three hours cycling the back roads of Italian wine country to find our home again, as many roads were blocked off for the festival, necessitating a roundabout route home. Of course, in true Italian, (and especially Ferro) fashion, we soon got hopelessly lost after Amleto decided to take a “shortcut” through a nearby cornfield.
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| Not a bad place to get lost. |
I pause here briefly to say that if you ever have a choice of where, anywhere in the world, to get lost, make it in Norther Italy, on an absolutely gorgeous Autumn damn, amongst fresh vineyards and cornfields, with your cousin, his son, your wife, your sister and your mother. You can literally close your eyes, stick your finger out and point and you when you open you eyes, you are pointing at a postcard worthy photo.
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| "And then he rode off into the distance." |
We made our way unhurriedly home, stopping every fifteen minutes to chat to a lost-lost second cousin/best friend/ex-neighbour. These encounters would usually begin with my mother introducing herself as Carla Ferro, followed by my sister Michelle, myself (Adamo) and Kat (Katerina). The men then usually followed this up with “Che Bella, Katerina!” (Catherine is so beautiful!) and much cheek kissing and exclamations of “Com’e vai?” (How are you?) I seriously doubt Kat and been called beautiful by so many men since we started dating. By this time it was around 7 30pm, and we had an enormous dinner organised for us that was to start at 7pm at Amletos house with all the Ferro’s and their various sub-relations from the area. Amleto wasn’t worried, they would wait for us, no matter what. I tried, in my broken, mutilated Italian, to tell him that we would be late, but he clearly didn’t care, “So what?” he said “They didn’t expect us to arrive before eight anyway.”
He was right on the money, by the time we got home, had the world’s quickest shower and walked up the road to Amleto’s house, it was almost exactly eight. The next series of adventures, fuelled by amazing, true Italian food and homemade alcohol was about to begin…..
Here I must again diverge from the narrative path. The reason I do this is because I feel that if I do not you, dear reader, will not understand the significance of events that follow.
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Amletos meat storage locker. Notice two
entire sides of proscuitto. |
It many Wealthy western countries, notably Australia, England, America, etc, food is a means to an end. People eat because if they do not, they bodies will wither and die. Even the minority in these places who appreciated and seek out quality food, and appreciate that food is linked to other facets of living, still dissociate food from the daily grind. You eat well when you can, but if push comes to shove, you eat what you have to. Not only this, but if I want to drink wine or eat pork, I go to the shop and buy it. Commerce equals food, swap currency for food. It’s as built into our DNA as survival and reproduction. We don’t even know that we do it.
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Me halving a chuck of pancetta. I was tempted
to just find a quiet spot and eat it all. |
Italy, at least where my family is from, food and eating is not like that. Food IS life. Not just food, but the preparation and love of food. It’s hard to explain in words (hell, it’s hard for me to explain to myself) but people essentially associate good food with good life. To give an example, today we rode many kilometres all over Udine and Nespaledo. How many fast food, MacDonals, Pizza Hut style take away joints did we see? ZERO. NONE. I literally mean that there is not a crappy, greasy, shitty McFood outlet ANYWHERE in the region. In fact, upon mentioning this to Amleto, he relayed to me (through my sister the translator) the story of the lone MacDonalds that opened in Udine (a town of over 50 000 people) and SHUT DOWN after six months because no one ate there. Why the hell would you, when for your whole life you’ve had homemade prosciutto (salted ham) formaggio (cheese) and local fresh fruit and vegetables? Vegetable gardens are so prevalent in Italy that they have a separate word for them (orto), and literally everyone has one. Amleto, who isn’t some crazy ancient famer, but a modern electrician working on the road network, makes his own salame, proscuttio, formaggio, pancetta, not to mention no less than TWENTY DIFFERENT fruit liquers. By the way, when I say he makes his own limoncello (lemon liqueur), I mean he literally grows the lemons on his own land, picks them with his own hands and ferments them in jars in his own cellar which is dug under his own house. Same goes for Cherry, Orange and Cumqaut alcoholic brews. It’s an entirely different culture and attitude towards food and the social act of sharing food with loved ones, whether they be friends or family. Very cool.
So we arrived at dinner, and after much kissing and greeting we sat down for the first course, which was a antipasta of proscuitto, salame, artichoke, eggplant and bread, (everything home made, of course.) Our beverages consisted of homemade sweet white wine (again) and a homemade champagne like drink called Pressecco. The second course was a pork sausages risotto, and finally roast veal with peas and marinated eggplant. To say it was delicious would be a criminal understatement. The meal was punctuated with passionate half Italian, half English conversations on topics ranging from the distance from Udine to Munich and the poor quality of Australian XXXX beer to the average age of marriage and why Kat and I were drinking water with dinner. (Italians will look at you odd if you drink tap water or milk by itself. Milk is for coffee.)
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| Amleto pouring Cumquat liqueur for us. Kat looks scared. |
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Italian shot glass. See the thing next to it? Thats a jar, and
it's not that far behind them. |
This the evening proceeded, many laughs were had, and after the food had been cleared away, Amleto starts to bring out the aforementioned liqueurs. We started with no less than three different cherry liqueurs, then the cumquat one, followed by grappa infused with Rosemary and Sage (that one was seriously strong.) Amleto saved the best for last with the Limoncello, which was absolutely divine. I should mention here that Italian shot glasses are to normal shot glasses as a Volkswagen bug is to an Airbus A380. Kat was attempting to politely declining each drink, but since she didn’t have the necessary language skills, I signed her up for every single one. And to her credit, she put away almost all of them like a champ. Way to Represent Australian drinking prowess, sweetie. By this stage, I had imbibed a fairly serious amount of alcohol, as well as having about 4 hours sleep in the last 48 hours. I knew when Amleto tried to get me to follow his son Thomaso into a nightclub in town that it was time to call it a night.
So Kat, Maria, Michelle and myself all picked ourselves up and headed back for some sleep. I, knew, however, that I had some serious blogging to do, and this started typing what you are now reading. And with that, I sign off for some well deserved sleep. Stay tuned, tomorrow I will be visiting an ancient town built in a Napoleon area fort that makes some of the most famous cheeses and meats in Italy, and will endeavour to write again when I have a chance. But for now, this is the Ferro’s saying, goodnight.